Summiting Mt. Whitney in November 2024

In November 2024, I made a second attempt to climb Mt. Whitney, which is the highest point in the lower 48 states and attracts many visitors. My first attempt was in 2016, solo, via a Mountaineering Route. I did not summit at that time, so I decided to return. This post contains information about the mountain, things to know if you plan to go, useful links.

There is a lot of information about hiking Mt. Whitney. I won’t go into all the details and will provide links to other more in-depth descriptions.

When to go

A permit is required to visit Mt. Whitney, with a lottery system in place from May to November. Since I live outside the US, I prefer going off season. From November 1st, permits are available without the lottery, though the weather can be unpredictable. Early November usually offers warm days and nights. Check the forecast at https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Whitney/forecasts/3500 . This link allows you to check the weather at different elevation. The weather changes rapidly!

Which route to take

The mountaineers' route is fun but dangerous, requiring preparation and technical skills. We chose the main trail, so the following details pertain to it. However, I include a paragraph about my mistakes on Mountaineering Route.

Single day or overnight

Sleeping on the mountain in November means temperatures can drop below freezing. While it's manageable inside a tent, you'll need warm gear. My sleeping pad (R-value 5.9) and down sleeping bag together weigh 2.5 kg (5.51 lb). My friend, however, used a pad with an R-value of 3.8 and a synthetic sleeping bag for cold weather and was also fine.

Most people climb Mt. Whitney as a day hike, but it takes time, especially with November's short daylight from 6:20 to 16:20. I opted for a 2-day hike. If you're at the summit around sunset, you get an extra hour of light. Navigating the trail with a headlight is easy as it's well-marked, so starting at 1-2 a.m. and returning in the dark is feasible. The hike is very long, so carrying less weight makes it easier.

We combined both approaches. We hiked to Trail Camp with heavy backpacks, summited the same day, and returned to Trail Camp for the night. The next day, we hiked back to the trailhead. I failed to realize in advance how long it would take us to reach the Trail Camp, so we arrived too early to call it a day. We started at ca 06:00 and reached the Trail Camp by 11.

Pro tip: if you setup a tent and plan to return in the dark – mark its location on your phone/map! 😉

The trail

The trail is very visible and marked well (at least when there is no snow). We had no trouble finding it. The only tricky sections were just after the summit (a plateau with many possible paths) and at Trail Camp in the dark (small detours to camp sites).

Nevertheless, be sure to grab a GPX file with the trail and some sort of GPS device (either your phone or a dedicated device). It’s always good to have one with you.

Given its popularity and length, additional distance markers along the way would be helpful. I found it useful to print out trail details for reference (credit goes to https://www.willtravelforsunsets.com/post/everything-and-anything-you-need-to-know-for-a-2-day-mt-whitney-hike):

The above table is based on the following sheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vT2B5BrEUKJsQT26-ndVqt_ixp0S96iz0PRbORbNOtZn2VddPA5ImOsGiMqs8KOm1Vfg0ZQ09v8b_OM/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true&widget=true&headers=false

Trip in numbers

Number of US elections happened during the trip: 1
Total miles driven in a rented vehicle: 1626 (2616 km)
People met on the first day: 11
People met on the second day: 5
Solo hikers: 4
People who didn’t summit: 1
People with an ice axe: 1
Alcohol consumed before the hike: 2 beers + 1 whisky shot; 1 small beer.
Alcohol consumed right after the hike: 1 beer.
Average weight of backpacks: 42 lb (19 kg)
Ping pong sets played in Lone Pine: 4
American pool games played in Lone Pine: 1
Times thinking about jumping in a swimming pool or a lake: 2
Times actually jumping in a swimming pool or a lake: 0
Snickers bars consumed during the trip: 0.5

Mistakes for Mountaineering Route in 2016

Here is what I think are my mistakes for not making it back in 2016:

Going solo on a more challenging route
Not preparing physically (I think I did train a bit, but not really with a backpack)
Not staying focused on my goal - visited friends on the way to Lone Pine → delayed → arrived late for grabbing the permit the same day → late departure to the trail
Not testing my tent beforehand. I bought a new tent just a couple of days prior the trip and didn’t test it on the ground. To put it on the mountain during sunset when I was tired and sick from altitude was an extra challenge.